The Summit: Leave it to the Gods

November 19, 2014November 16, 2014 / pakdavebali / Leave a comment

Only the five best climbers were chosen from our group to challenge the summit. I must have been number six. I missed the cut and was bitterly disappointed. But, the summit climb is very rugged and dangerous. Two days before some hikers were literally blown off a ridge top. When Wyasa told me he had tried the summit, but had to turn back I didn’t feel so bad since he’s about ten times stronger than me.

So instead of getting killed, I spent the day at the hot springs. Thank God for being Number 6.

At the moment this photo was taken, I had this perfectly warm spring all to myself. Minutes later I was joined by 25 villagers from central Lombok. These villagers were Muslim and dirt poor. They had brought some food, a few plates to share and a pot to boil their rice. They were planning to catch fish at Anak Laut to supply the bulk of their food. They were ecstatic about their upcoming vacation. Of course they were surprised to find a white guy occupying their spring. But we talked and joked for an hour.

Drying fish

In America I might have been ticked off that 25 strangers invaded my space. But after living in Bali for 2 years, I’m used to the lack of privacy. It was fun in camp. Everywhere I went people invited into their tents for coffee or a cigarette. All these conversations started out exactly the same. For the first five minutes it was all about exchanging information: Where did I live? Where was my wife? How many kids? Where was my wife? When was I returning to Bali? Where was my wife? Did I like Lombok? Where was my wife. This is all pretty normal. Indonesians want some basic information on where to place you. Read Indonesia, Etc. by Elizabeth Pisani to get some funny insight on this.

But even though my language skills are still weak, I could have some conversations. I talked to a young architect about the techniques he uses to prevent his buildings from falling down in an earthquake. I asked everyone if they liked Indonesia’s dynamic new president, Jokowi. Most did not. 80% of Lombok voted for Jokowi’s opponent. I talked to a man who holds down two jobs as a teacher and hotel employee, and wants to learn the Hindu slokas (chants). I talked to a young couple who brought their eight-year old daughter with them on the trek. They are middle class, but still stressed about the basic economic needs of putting food on the table and sending their daughter to school.

Our final ceremony involved two fun events. First, a group of brave young men jumped into the chilly lake. They retrieved two stoppered bottles that had been placed in the lake the previous day. The mystery would be to see if these bottles had filled with water. Miraculously, as they do every year, the bottles returned filled with holy water (tirta). We cheered.

Counting the coin and jewelry offerings

The second ritual involved collecting coins and jewelry amounting to several hundred dollars which would be given to the Gods of the lake as an offering. We cheered again as another group of brave men swam out to give this gift.

Then we went to bed early for a 3am wake up call. 4am prayers…and 5am hitting the road.

The way out started with a two kilometer climb to the ridge top. Wyasa and I started early, and avoided the traffic jams. At the top one of the old guys yelled down: Stop Smoking and Keep Walking. That’s because almost all of the young men would walk like rabbits for about five minutes and then stop for a cigarette break. They are “Smoking Bunnies”, he told me.

Just five minutes before the end, the rain started. We had achieved one of our key goals. Our prayers had been answered. It rained all the way back to Mataram, and I’m not sure if the rain has stopped since. These guys really know what they are doing. Places suffering drought, like California, might want to consult them.

We hopped back on the bus. Smoked a couple of clove cigarettes. And then the young guys dropped off to sleep sprawling across each other. They may be Smoking Rabbits, but at that moment they reminded me a lot of puppy dogs.

Our porter Made

Father and son porter team who also helped us.

Wyasa

Fog rolling into the lake

On the trail to Rinjani

November 15, 2014 / pakdavebali / 1 Comment

This Was the Easy Day

We walked in the dark for the first hour, and thank God, because actually seeing the cliff faces we were walking on would have scared me into turning back. By the time it was light, we were too far up the trail to bailout especially since there were 200 people behind me….And this was the easy day.

Our porters carried their stuff in rice bags hung on bamboo poles.

Hiking with Putu

With our group partners Ibu and Kadek

Every morning and evening, the community prayed together. No matter what the religion, there’s something very powerful about praying with 250 people in a beautiful outdoor setting. Our prayers were primarily to harmonize with God, nature and other people (Tri Hata Karana) which means we prayed to the primary Hindu trilogy of Brahma (the creator), Vishnu (The Protector) and Shiva (The Destroyer). We always finished with the Tri Sandhya mantra which is the most common prayer in Bali. It is chanted at public schools every morning and in most temple ceremonies.

Our group ascending to Anak Laut.

Sprinkling tirta (holy water)

The chief priest offering prayers.

The Tri Sandhya is followed by the traditional five prayers using flowers:

1. Pray for your soul “atman.” 2. Pray to Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and your ancestors. 3. Honor the one God, and ask forgiveness of your sins. 4. Prayers asking God to help heal the sick. 5. Pray for peace in your soul and the world.

Then comes the water purification ceremony. The assistant priests (mangkus) first sprinkle water on your head followed by three sprinkles to drink and another three for washing your face. I’ve heard the Balinese form of Hinduism called Agama Tirta, or the Religion of Holy Water. Water is the key element in all Balinese ceremonies. For example, in the cremation ceremony, tirta is the mechanism which releases the soul to return to heaven.

Holy Water (Tirta) from Anak Laut

Improvised temple at Anak Laut

Sorry, to go into detail on this, but the Tri Sandhya, these prayers and the water rituals are really at the heart of Bali’s culture. I can’t pretend to fully understand all of their meaning, but for every Balinese it really goes to the soul of their spiritual and community lives. It’s these daily rituals that define the people and their culture. In a very concrete way it makes one feel bound to God, bound to your community and bound to nature. The Balinese are very open in allowing outsiders to participate in their rituals. It’s something we’ve done for many decades while visiting here and at home.

A mid-morning ceremony

Blessing a goose who is about to become an offering

Our group sacrificed several chickens and other foul as a way of feeding the spirits above and below which helps our prayers become accepted. Good news Bad news story for the chickens. Good news is that their souls are reincarnated into higher beings. Bad news: your lunch

Hindu or Christian, Pak Dave?

Surprisingly, no one had asked me this question before. But since we were spending 24/7 together sweating our way up the mountain, a few Balinese people risked asking me this personal question because they observed me practicing the Balinese Hindu rituals. My answer was that I was born and remain a Christian. And during this journey, I spent a long time thinking about the Sermon on the Mount. What I love about Jesus is that he was such a subversive, and there’s nothing more revolutionary than the Sermon on the Mount’s direction for people to go deeper into their souls in understanding and following the Ten Commandants. It’s intention that counts as much as ritual and external acts. At the time, it was a direct assault on the rituals of the synagogue. It’s also a reminder that excessive ritual which can happen in Bali Hinduism, Catholicism, and other churches is sometimes a distraction from getting to the heart of the matter.

I also told him I was a Hindu because it helps explain the reality I’ve experienced in the world and in life. Also, I particularly love the Balinese approach to Hinduism which is a mish-mash for spirituality, community and common-sense.

And finally I told him that I’m on the hunt for other religions to understand. I’m now reading the Koran, for instance. So this pretty much blew his mind because Indonesians (at least officially) like to have clear labels for people. The national identity card (until yesterday when the new government changed the law) , for example, requires every citizen to identify his/her religion. But this ecumenical view is all very Gandhian. Gandhi was an adamant respecter of all religions, and carried a copy of the Gita, Sermon on the Mount and Koran with him.

With one of the mangku’s (assistant priests)

Sorry for the diversion into theology. But as you can tell, this adventure turned out to be as much as spiritual journey for me and my new friends as it was a mountaineering adventure.

Back to the Climb

We spent the second night along a river that was very fresh but with a yellow color from the sulfuric lava rock and hot springs nearby. There were few tent sites available, so we ended up camping on a bed of ashes from a forest fire that had burned the area very recently. Smokey the Bear would not be happy about cavalier approach to campfires practiced by these Balinese trekkers. In fact, a couple of logs nearby were still shooting flames out. The yellow river proved to be an excellent tub. Fortunately, our drinking water came from a fresh spring further up the hill.

Clean, but sulfury water great for bathing, not so good for drinking

We arose again at 5am, and sat on hard, cold rocks for a quick morning prayer before the day’s hike began. While the trail turned out to be quite steep in places, the pain in our bodies was soothed by diversions to two sacred sites. The first one we slithered into a cave through a very small opening. Inside the cave was a warm pool where we prayed in all five sacred directions. We then hiked another few miles to a second cave where the Goa Susu (cave milk) or hot springs soothed our aching muscles and blessed our souls.

Wyasa emerging from the cave opening after praying

Praying inside the cave to the five sacred directions

Climbing through Goa Susu (cave milk)

Wyasa getting his Buddha on

Finally, we hiked into our final camp at beautiful Anak Laut (Child of the Sea) a crater lake formed in the caldera of the Rinjani volcanoes. Yes, that is plural.

Anak Laut

And we finally got our first peek at the summit of Rinjani.

Anak Laut

Next up: Pak “Spiderman” Dave traverses cliffs and ledges at Panjor Mas.

Oh Shit

Bali Tooth Filing and Cremation Ceremony

October 30, 2014April 21, 2015 / pakdavebali / Leave a comment

Putu, Komang, Father and Kadek in front. Grandfather and uncle in back

Saturday was a very auspicious day for ashram members Kadek Ayu Ariani, Komang Ayu Juliantari and their sister Putu Ayu Astri. Five years after their mother died, they were able to cremate her. The mass cremation ceremony was sponsored by a Member of Parliament from the Karangasem area.

Big sister Putu, took charge of making sure her sisters were taken care of

The sisters and their family worked all week long preparing offerings for the cremation. After the ceremony they walked down to the sea where they released her ashes to return to the universe. Very moving.

But wait that’s not all. The same afternoon, there was another important ceremony for Balinese…tooth filing or mesangih. This ritual is usually performed around 16 or 17 years old. However, it’s expensive so many poor people cannot afford. But the same organization sponsored the mesangih for more than 200 people including Kadek and her father.

Showing off their filed down teeth

Kadek praying before the ceremony begins

Dad under the knife

Good Whips Evil in Bali Holiday Bash

June 1, 2014April 21, 2015 / pakdavebali / Leave a comment

Panjor at Ashram Gandhi Puri

Twice a year the Balinese celebrate the ten-day Galungan holiday which symbolizes the fight between good and evil….And every six months evil gets its butt kicked.

One of the forces that helps defeat evil during Galungan is the strength of Balinese families. Not only can all the living family members be called upon to help, but conveniently, Galungan is a time when all the ancestors happen to be visiting so they too can summoned as spiritual reinforcements.

Ancestors Temple

And finally, Galungan is a family holiday where mothers, fathers, grandmothers, grandfathers, aunts, uncles, nieces, nephews, cousins and kids gather to swap the latest family gossip, catch up on family news and pray together.

Kadek and Wenni

Ashram men

Ririn and Ogek

Of course, the drama of evil versus good, ancestor worship and family reunion that make up Galungan are celebrated with ritual and ceremony. We were part of all this on the last day of Galungan when Indra invited us to his family temple for their Galungan ceremony.

Our Pandita is Indra’s 82 year-old uncle, a former boxer.

Neutralizing the evil spirits with arak and a feast

The family temple is located on a mountain top which requiring a steep 30-minute hike through groves of coconut, clove and nutmeg trees. It features a large temple for the ancestors and numerous other smaller temples for the other Gods watching over the family members. The family is part of the Arya Kaloping clan which over the past several hundred years has spread out across Bali and the world. But wherever a family members is located, he or she will always have this place to call home. It’s a very powerful way to keep grounded especially in today’s mobile society.

Offerings

Bayu helping to get ready

Temple at sunset

The family welcomed us as their own to the ceremony. It began by neutralizing the evil gods by giving them some arak (palm whiskey) and stuffing them with food such as eggs and coconut. How else would you deal with evil?

After temporarily subduing evil, the ceremony could move on to the traditional Balinese prayers, water purification ceremony and honoring the ancestors.

After the ceremony we ate a communal dinner of rice, chicken and a country sambal (spicy sauce) that made me sweat even in the cool evening air…

Nengah loses at dominoes and wears a banana on his ear

And finally we spent the night visiting and then fell asleep under the stars.

Crescent moon above the temple

Final Score: Good: 10 Evil: 0….but a rematch has been scheduled in six months.

Canti,

Pak Dave

Easter In Bali…Selamat Paskah

April 21, 2014April 21, 2015 / pakdavebali / 2 Comments

You might think it would have been awkward celebrating Easter at a Gandhian Ashram on the Hindu island of Bali in the most populous Muslim country in the world. But it turned out to be one of the most meaningful Easter’s we’ve ever experienced.

Our leader, Indra Udayana, welcomed our teaching the kids some of the fun

Coloring Easter Eggs

and serious traditions of Easter. The day before we colored Easter eggs which the kids took to a whole new level with their awesome drawing ability.

Easter morning began with our regular prayers at 5am, and then an enthusiastic Easter Egg hunt.

Drawing Talent Is Just in the Balinese Blood

Afterwards, we attended Easter Service at Saint Sisillya Catholic Church. We

At St. Sisillya Catholic Church with Indra, ashram members Kadek and Komang and choir members.

were warmly welcomed by the Pastor and its 200 members. Their new church just recently opened, and is beautifully decorated with familiar Christian art work some of which is rendered in traditional Balinese painting methods.

Christ on the Cross rendered in Kamasan village art style

Last Supper

After evening prayers, we gathered in the garden around a statue of Mother Mary. Felicity and our friend Amma from Brisbane, Australia shared some thoughts about the meaning of Easter with our Ashram members. We recited the Our Father prayer, and finished by demolishing a bowl full of chocolate Easter eggs. There were a few unsettled stomachs this morning.

Felicity and Amma talking about Easter at ashram’s Mother Mary statue

One of the things I love most about following the Gandhian path is how it treats all religions. One of the eleven principles we live by at Ashram Gandhi Puri is Sarva Dharma Samanatva which means respect for all religions. In fact, Gandhi carried a copy of the Sermon of the Mount with him along with the Hindu text Bhagavad Gite and the Koran. Even though Hindu mantras are the core of our daily prayers, we also say the Our Father prayer and some of the important Muslim prayers. I’ve also attended Ramadan celebrations where the ashram members have sung these Muslim hymns. I also love living in Indonesia because of its strong respect for the diversity of religious worship. With some exceptions, there is a lot of tolerance for the country’s recognized religions. The Catholic priest at St. Sisillya told me that his church has never faced a challenge from the larger Hindu or Muslim religions, and in fact received support from the government to build the new church.

at Ramadan last year

Chatting up the girls last year at Ramadan

We hope your Easter and Passover Celebrations were great. Selamat Paskah (Happy Easter), Salaam, Shalom, Canti

Shhh…It’s Nyepi

April 8, 2014April 8, 2014 / pakdavebali / 2 Comments

Nyepi is a day of silence in Bali by people…although the chickens, dogs and crickets have not received the memo. The airport shuts down. No driving. No Internet. No working. No phone calls. No lights on outside. No visiting neighbors. Whispering. The idea is to stay so silent that the evil spirits who were lurking just before the Hindu New Year, get so bored with island that they pass it by for more fun elsewhere. It’s also very peaceful. No honking, traffic or truck brakes. The sound of the chickens, dogs, cows, birds and crickets dominated the stage. Felicity held a tea party for the Ashram girls. Dave did yoga without the rock music he usually plays. (We must all make our sacrifices.) Here is a video of what Nyepi sounded like. But the night before Nyepi, NOISY!

Ogoh Ogoh Monster

It’s a big party to rile up and confuse the evil spirits. It’s called Ogoh Ogoh. The main purpose of the making of Ogoh-ogoh is the purification of the natural environment of any spiritual pollutants emitted from the activities of living beings (especially humans). There are parades of fun (supposedly scary) monster statues that are taken to the cemetery and burned. It finishes up with a fire dance in which young men whip each other with burning sticks all in the name of purification, balancing out the negative energy. Anyways, after Oga Oga, comes peace…Nyepi and the Hindu New Year!! Selamat Hari Raya Nyepi!!